When there is talk of Paranthas, thoughts immediately turn to the Paranthe Wali Gali in Delhi. Parantha is an Indian home-made bread and is best eaten when it is piping hot, more so during chilly winters. The Paranthas sold in the Paranthe Wali Gali are superb and yummy.
Where is the Paranthe Wali Gali
Parantha may perhaps be the only food in the world to have an entire street named after it! The street (Gali) is opposite Natraj Café in Chandni Chowk market of Old Delhi in India. It is a tourist landmark; hence when on your return from Delhi, you will certainly be asked, “Did you go to Paranthe Wali Gali?”
The Meaning of the Name
Paranthe Wali Gali means ‘the lane of stuffed fried bread’ and is the name of the narrow lane that sells mouthwatering Paranthas. This has been an Indian delicacy for almost three centuries and is believed to exist since the reign of the Mughals. The shops here were actually owned by a family who were Brahmins. But due to family feuds, they separated and set up their own shops.
What is Parantha?
The Paranthas originated in the north Indian subcontinent. They are made from whole wheat flour. They are unleavened flat bread, often stuffed with boiled vegetables and shallow fried in clarified butter.
History of Paranthe Wali Gali
At the entrance of Paranthe Wali Gali is ‘Kanwarji Bhagirathmal Dalbhajiwallah’ confectionary shop which is more 150 years old. There were more than a dozen shops here till 1984. But during the riots, some 10 feet away from the ‘Kanwarji’ shop after Indira Gandhi’s assassination, the Paranthe Wali Gali was gutted. Today what remain, are the ones rebuilt after the riots. Some of the Parantha sellers took to various other businesses. Today the sixth generation is preserving the lane’s name.
Paranthas of the Paranthe Wali Gali
The hot Paranthas served by the shops here resemble each other, but they are very different from the rest. The smell of clarified butter, the aroma, the ambience, and the charm of the Paranthe Wali Gali entice all, and was known as ‘Khurad Dari Ba’ during the Mughal period.
Then & Now of the Paranthas
Earlier, there were only three kinds of Paranthas made from potatoes (aloo), cauliflower (gobi), and green peas (mutter). Apart from the plain, salted and sweet paranthas, the street also sells those made from almond (badam), pulses (dal), coriander leaves (dhaniya), carrots (gaajjar), cashew (kaju), fenugreek leaves (methi), radish (mooli), cottage cheese (paneer), pistachios (pista), onion (pyaaz), mint leaves (pudina), and many more. Sweet potato and raw bananas are also used.
Kneading of the Dough
The dough is made of wheat flour and is made into small balls. These are rolled into round, square or triangular shapes. In some, the stuffing is simply kneaded with the dough. While in some, the cook rolls out the Paranthas and adds fillings in the centre.
Preparation of the Tasty Filling
The fillings are a right blend of salt and spices added to the vegetable of choice, or of nuts that are all properly chopped or grated. The flat bread is closed around the filling to hold it in place, and then lightly rolled out. The more fat used for frying the Parantha, the tastier it gets. They are served with pickles and ‘raitas’ - a curd preparation of raw or boiled vegetables are tossed.
The Paranthe Wali Lane
The first Parantha shop belongs to Pandit Devi Dayal who is a direct descendant of the original owners. He serves all kinds of Paranthas and a ‘special’ variety too.
Kanhaiya Lal Durga Prasad’s shop is the next and established in 1875. He offers the ‘rabri’ (condensed milk) Parantha for those with a sweet tooth! He does not serve onions and garlic as he is a staunch ‘Jain’. Carrot and radish pickles decorate his shop front along with photographs of Jawaharlal Nehru and his sister dining in the shop.
The oldest shop dates back to 1872 and belongs to Pandit Prasad Shiv Charan. His walls too adorn photographs of Jawaharlal Nehru, Lal Bahadur Shastri - all enjoying Paranthas! Anil Sharma is the fifth-generation owner. His great-grandfather who came from Bhind in Madhya Pradesh had sold Paranthas for just one paisa! The great grandpa had gradually brought his family members here. Thus all the shops in this Paranthe Wali Gali have been owned by members from his extended family.
How Paranthas Were Served
The Paranthas were served on leaf plates, with water by the side in clay pots called ‘khullars’. But now tables are preferred and mineral water is served. The mineral water bottle has replaced the ‘Khullars’ and the Parantha shops are slowly willing to serve as takeaway joints.
Inspiration from the Paranthe Wali Gali
The Paranthe Wali Gali has inspired the demand for wholesome street food and there are many neat and clean fancy joints such as ‘Only Paranthas’, ‘Not Just Paranthas’, ‘Parantha Junction’, and the like in metros.
Happy Eating to Visitors at Paranthe Wali Gali
The street houses descendants of the royal chefs of yore whose skills are par excellence. They make such Paranthas that one just can’t stop with one. Hence stop counting your calories and enjoy the Indian bread!
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