Toronto's Maroli Indian Restaurant
Southern Indian Cuisine - Spicy Dishes From Kerala, India
It's a rather plain locale but the food is delicious. Maroli in downtown Toronto delivers a spicy, unique blend of Kerala tastes to this Northern clime.
You've probably never noticed it on your way to the KFC on Bloor Street, west of Bathurst in Toronto. Plain white walls, simple table and chairs and giant posters are all that adorn this treasure of a restaurant.
Maroli opened up in the fall and it's slowly gaining some regulars. I've visited twice and noticed a lot of people picking up their orders on their way home from work. But it's also nice to just sit and enjoy the gorgeous smells emanating from the kitchen.
Kerala cuisine, from Southern India, is very hot and spicy, relying on seafood and rice and not a lot of oil or sugar.
Many of its dishes are tingling with tamarind, cardamom, pepper, ginger, clove, turmeric and nutmeg. Typical veggies include yam and gourd. It's also a land brimming with fruits such as mango, jackfruit, coconut and pineapple.
Also known as Malabar, the region is known for its steamed rice cakes and pancakes with each community proud of their own variations on those foods.
Typical dishes include mutton, chicken or fish biryanis, mussels cooked in the shell (arikadaka), roast chicken, yellow and red fish curry, beef salad made with onions and green chilis and peera pattichathu, a dry fish dish with grated coconut.
Other spicy dishes from India include Green Chili Chicken, Indian Chickpeas and Eggplant, Chicken Korma. If you're intrigued by Indian cuisine, check out the Ayurvedic Diet and a primer to Moghul Food.
YUMMY MALABARI CHICKEN
A key dish in the restaurant, as evidenced by its posters, is the fiery-red Malabari chicken with its blend of secret spices. The chicken comes in three-bite pieces and sings with pepper, ginger, curry leaves, clove and possibly a dint of tamarind.
There's a savoury lentil curry, yellow and warm and not very spicy.
Oh yes, you have to tell the waiter whether you want mild, medium or hot – and be forwarned, hot is done in an authentic way.
The saag paneer is deeply green with spinach and soft bits of cheese which melt in your mouth. A shrimp biryani comes piled like a jello mould, bright with bits of green chili, some carrots and peas. I dig around and discover a treasure trove of large shrimp in one corner.
There are the usual suspects listed on the menu: tikka masala, tandoori chicken, roti (Malabari-style), butter chicken and samosas.
A side of flaky Malabari roll (like naan) is truly delectable.
With most dishes flying between $5.99 and $9.99, Maroli is a satisfying, inexpensive treat on a cold, wintry day. Service is friendly and efficient. In fact, when my eating partner accidentally ingested a giant green chili, the server came back with a free bowl of refreshing raita. Now, that's service!
I've been told by the chef that he plans to expand the menu this year, hoping to hire a few more chefs. I am hoping this comes true.
MAROLI, 630 Bloor Street West, Toronto. Tel : 416 483 5393
